WELCOME TO OUR KITCHEN: We're talking about all sorts of syrups!
Tree syrups. Did you know there are many more than just maple syrup? We love them because they're versatile and tasty. So we're doing a taste-test of tree syrups.
We're Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough, authors of three dozen cookbooks and countless published recipes. We've written about syrups for the old GOURMET magazine and we want to share the passion we developed in that article with you.
So let's talk tree syrups!
Here are the segments for this episode of COOKING WITH BRUCE & MARK;
[00:39] Our-minute cooking tip: add a little maple syrup to bottled salad dressings, barbecue sauces, and marinades for a flavor boost. Or stir maple syrup into softened butter.
[02:33] All about tree syrups: maple, black walnut, birch, and beech. A true treat. We'll share our tasting notes with you. If you sign up for our newsletter at cookingwithbruceandmark.com, you can find our about our favorite producers.
[18:42] What’s making us happy in food this week: whitefish salad and beef daube.
Transcript
Hey, I'm Bruce Weinstein, and this is the podcast
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:Cooking with Bruce and Mark.
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:Mark: And I'm Mark Skarborough.
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:And together with Bruce, we have
written 36 cookbooks, plus Bruce
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:has written two knitting books, plus
I have written a memoir, so much.
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:And we, in fact, have more in the works.
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:We are currently in the editorial
process of a new cookbook.
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:We'll tell you about
that on down the line.
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:But in this episode of our podcast
about food and cooking, we're talking
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:about syrup, all things syrup,
maple syrups, and many, many more.
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:We've got a one minute cooking tip
that involves, yes, you guessed it,
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:syrup, and we'll tell you what's
making us happy in food this week.
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:So let's get started.
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:Bruce: Our one minute cooking tip.
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:Use maple syrup to enhance simple things
like salad dressings and sour cream.
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:Just takes a few drops, little
hint of sweetness, depth of flavor.
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:Here's an idea.
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:Stir a teaspoon or two into
a softened stick of butter.
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:Use maple syrup and coffee
instead of white sugar.
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:Swap it for a simple
syrup in cocktail recipes.
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:Those are
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:Mark: lots of ways to use maple syrup.
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:So what kind of bottled salad dressing
would you suggest I use with maple syrup?
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:Bruce: Uh, you're going to mix it into
a bottled dressing like any vinaigrette
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:except balsamic because a balsamic
vinaigrette is already going to be sweet.
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:Like, so avoid the balsamic,
avoid the raspberry.
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:Go for, you know, an Italian
dressing, a regular vinaigrette.
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:You can even put a little bit into a
creamy ranch would make it fabulous.
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:Mark: Yeah.
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:And again, if you want a really nice
spread for toast, as Bruce says, mix
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:just a little, and we're talking a
tiny little bit, maybe two teaspoons at
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:most into a softened stick of butter.
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:That's a tablespoons of butter
or about 230 grams of butter.
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:Uh, mix it in there and then
just leave it out on the counter.
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:It's this sweetened
softened butter for toast.
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:Delicious.
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:Okay.
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:Before we get to the next segment
all about syrups, let us say
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:that we do have a newsletter.
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:You can find this newsletter by
going to our website, bruceandmark.
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:com or cookingwithbruceandmark.
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:com.
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:You can sign up there and then you can get
about once a month, twice a month maybe.
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:You can get various newsletters about
our topics, including one for this.
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:podcast episode about syrups.
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:We'll send you a newsletter that
includes our favorite syrup makers
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:who have not supported this podcast
and have given us nothing in return.
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:Bastards.
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:No, I'll just send you the links
to find our favorite syrup makers.
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:So let's get to talking about tree syrups.
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:Bruce: It's fall in New England.
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:We have apples.
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:We got pumpkins.
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:We got gourds.
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:We got cider donuts.
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:We got mums.
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:We got a lot of
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:Mark: gourds.
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:Bruce: And for some reason,
there's a lot of maple syrup to be
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:had in the fall, isn't it weird?
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:Mark: Yeah, it is weird.
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:If you don't know this, people
think of maple syrup when the trees
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:in New England turn red and gold.
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:But in fact, sugaring, as it's called,
happens in the late winter, it's not
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:even spring, in the very late autumn.
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:winter.
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:And although it looks like it
should happen now with apples and
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:beautiful trees, in fact, it's
the exact wrong time of year.
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:So here's the deal.
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:If you don't know about how this works
during the summer, maple trees and only.
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:Two sorts of maple
trees make syrup, right?
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:The
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:Bruce: sugar maple and the red maple.
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:Mark: Okay, so we get these two
species, which are abundant here in New
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:England, sugar maples and red maples.
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:And during the summer, through
photosynthesis, they create
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:sugar and that sugar travels
down the tree into the roots.
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:And it's stored as carbohydrates in
the roots when the spring thaw comes.
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:And we're talking really the late
winter thaw, not even the spring
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:Bruce: off in the end of January
is when you start putting your
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:holes and your taps into the trees.
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:I
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:Mark: mean, I'll tell you
that Bruce and I have lived in
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:rural New England for 18 years.
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:And when we first moved up
here, it was usually around the.
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:the end of February when they
started tapping the trees.
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:Now it's generally the end of
January, the first day of February
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:when they're tapping the trees.
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:So they tap the trees, they use
a pressure system to actually
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:draw sap up the tree, right?
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:And then out the tap.
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:Sometimes you'll see the old fashioned
way with buckets hanging off trees, but
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:you can also drive around the woods around
us and it looks like a brewery because
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:there's a million trees connected by a
million bits of little plastic piping.
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:Bruce: So people making maple syrup
now have Barrels and barrels and
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:gallons and gallons of maple sap, and
there's a high sugar content, but to
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:make it easier to boil it down, most
people use a reverse osmosis system
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:that takes pressure in it to get the
water content out, reduces the sugar
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:content, makes it easier to boil down.
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:Mark: As a general rule, so just
as a general rule, the sap that is
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:pulled out of the trees is stronger,
or more maple syrupy, let's just say.
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:Earlier in the year, and it
gets watery as it goes on.
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:So as the season extends, they
have to boil it down more and more.
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:That's a general rule.
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:It doesn't always work out that way.
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:And where we live in our part of England,
we see them start and stop sugaring.
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:So they'll start.
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:Getting the sap out, and then we'll
get a really bad cold snap and
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:they'll quit because the sap stops
running, and then we'll get a lot
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:of rain, and they'll quit sometimes
because it's too watery, and they want
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:that rain to kind of flush through.
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:There's all kinds of reasons why they
start And they stop it in general.
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:The early SAP is considered primo.
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:And if you go to certain producers,
they're very proud of offering you the
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:first week's run and that kind of stuff.
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:And it's because many people
believe that there is a milder,
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:mellower flavor early in the run.
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:Bruce: Why would you want something
mild when you can have a good,
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:lovely, strong maple flavor?
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:It
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:Mark: depends on what you want.
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:Not everybody wants the same thing.
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:Now, if you don't know, maple syrup
comes in all kinds of grades, and
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:there's Canadian differences, there's U.
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:S.
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:differences, and even there are some
producer differences because this is
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:weakly enforced, not strongly enforced.
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:But you should just look
at the color of the syrup.
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:In general, the darker it is, the more
molasses like and the more It's going to
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:get I tend to like very dark maple syrup.
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:You can get even ones that are so dark,
they're supposedly just for cooking.
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:It used
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:Bruce: to be called grade B.
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:I'm not sure what they call those now.
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:And
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:Mark: there's different Canadian
labelings and US labels.
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:I don't like it that far.
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:But I, Always with the dark stuff
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:Bruce: and in general, no matter
what color it is, the sugar content
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:is going to be at about 66 percent
which is 66 bricks degrees B.
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:R.
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:I.
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:X.
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:And it will take on average 40
liters of sap to make one leader.
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:Of maple syrup.
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:Yeah.
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:So
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:Mark: thi this is how you
know it's so expensive.
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:'cause you do know maple syrup is
expensive and a lot of people, I wanna
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:go back to this light and dark thing
'cause I don't wanna put anybody down.
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:A lot of people like the light
syrup because they like it for
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:pancakes and waffles and they prefer
that light tasting syrup on it.
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:I just like big flavoring.
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:Yeah, we do.
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:So that's my thing.
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:But you may not know this but,
well, maple trees are storied
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:in terms of of syrup production.
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:There are a lot.
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:of other trees that can be
sugared beyond maple trees.
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:And in fact, there are
people who sugar these trees.
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:And before Bruce launches into this,
I want to say that years ago, when
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:there was still Gourmet Magazine
and it still ran around, Bruce and
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:I wrote about an Alaskan birch.
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:Syrup producer.
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:Bruce: Yeah, these people, uh, lived
in Alaska and they had a huge, uh,
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:stand of birch trees that they tapped.
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:They tapped maple as well, and
they would, you know, some people
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:don't like the taste of birch.
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:Mark and I are actually gonna taste
it here live during this podcast.
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:Um, so they, you know, Because
people sometimes think it's bitter,
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:they blend it with maple, but
you could buy pure birch syrup.
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:And the one we're actually going to
taste today, we got on a recent trip
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:to Quebec, there was a producer there
that Eskoumiak, and they have all sorts
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:of grades and beautiful maple syrups
and a very, limited supply of birch
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:Mark: and a very expensive
supply of birch syrup.
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:This bottle that set us back a little
bit to buy a bottle of birch syrup.
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:It's really labor intensive because
birch trees, you can tell they've
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:got these thin trunks, they don't
produce as much as maple trees and
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:what they produce is often much more
watery than what maple trees produce
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:Bruce: to get the flavor.
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:of that caramelized birch sugar, you've
got to boil down a hundred to one, not
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:40 to one, like you do with maple syrup.
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:It's a hundred liters of
birch sap to one liter.
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:And that law,
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:Mark: not only do the birch trees produce
a different flavor than maple syrup,
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:that long boiling also brings on more.
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:caramel notes because more of the
sugars are transmogrifying as it
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:boils, so it's going to take on
a more molasses quality to it.
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:Maple syrup is, we think, is a
delicacy and we have long loved
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:maple syrup in our house and we love
the darker flavors, as I've said,
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:and we love the clean taste of it.
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:So we've got some here from where?
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:Bruce: That's from Hidden Springs in
Vermont, maple syrup, and I just tasted
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:it and handed Mark the shot glass.
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:Wow.
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:And.
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:The flavor is not just sweet.
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:It's fruity.
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:It actually has a stone
fruit quality that I like.
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:These people in Hidden Springs get a
leaf rot that happens on their property.
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:Yeah, it's a leaf mold rot.
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:That's a mold that gets down
into the roots and it kills them.
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:It gives it a spectacular flavor,
and it's mellow, and it's fruity,
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:as opposed to the Burt syrup.
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:Now, we do have that bottle of
Escomiak Burt syrup from Quebec,
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:and I'm looking at the color, and
it actually looks like molasses.
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:And
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:Mark: tar.
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:It looks like
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:Bruce: Worcestershire sauce.
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:And
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:Mark: it, when Bruce is swirling the
glass around, and it's staining the
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:inside of the glass a dark color.
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:And I'm going to taste it.
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:As he swirls it around.
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:And this stuff is really, really good.
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:Bruce: really a big flavor.
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:Wow.
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:I am getting a mouthful
of intense vanilla.
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:Oh wow.
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:Oh, and sour.
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:There's a sour quality
that is so fabulous hour.
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:Mark: And it, it is a huge flavor
that when I'm smelling and tasting
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:right now, it's just the forest.
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:It has this, Uh, the smell of damp forest
smell to it, but it's really sweet.
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:It's super sweet, but
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:Bruce: yet sour at the same time.
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:Crazy, sour, almost like a sucking candy
that you had as kids that were like the
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:crown royal sour cherries, sour lemons.
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:They were sweet, but they made you pucker.
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:I can imagine.
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:A little bit of this in a margarita
to give it that sour edge, but
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:also a little sweetness would
also give it a beautiful color.
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:Mark: It makes, let me just say, and
again, we're not sponsored by anybody.
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:So this doesn't go to anybody's
credit, but a purchaser makes a
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:really interesting holiday gift.
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:And if you want to try it out and give
it to someone as a holiday gift, I would
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:suggest that you don't go for the pure
stuff, but you go for the stuff that's
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:cut with maple syrup, because it's
going to be more mainstream tasting.
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:If you go for what we just tasted, which
is the, uh, the real hundred percent Burt
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:syrup, again, super damp wood smell taste
like, uh, it's got a kind of running
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:river brook through mossy ledge taste.
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:It's got a sour edge.
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:Imagine
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:Bruce: eating some sour edge.
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:sour berries right off a bush in the
woods, and then you take a bite of some
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:bread and it's sweet, but it's sour,
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:Mark: fabulous.
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:It's, it's birch syrup is,
is a, is a labor of love.
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:It's super intensive to create it.
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:Uh, when we spoke to these Alaskan
producers years ago for gourmet, it
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:was just amazing how much work they had
to put in to create their birch syrup.
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:But there are more than just birch syrup.
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:There
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:Bruce: is something really
special, black walnut tree syrup.
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:Now you have to be careful when
you're shopping for this because
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:there's a lot of bottles out
there labeled black walnut syrup.
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:And all those tend to be our corn syrup
and sugar syrups with black walnuts added
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:or black walnut extract added to them.
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:And they're delicious, but you
have the flavor of the walnut.
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:not the flavor of the tree.
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:Now, there are some people
actually boiling down black
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:walnut tree sap into syrup.
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:Takes about 50 liters of that sap.
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:Hard to find.
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:If you're going to look for
it, look for it in the spring.
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:Look for it in February or March.
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:We were lucky enough to get some
last year that we still have.
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:It's like birch syrup in its color.
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:It's very dark.
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:It's very viscous.
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:Um, the flavors are a little different,
and I'm going to give it a try.
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:Mark: It's, it's, uh, I should just tell
you, but the black walnut syrup, the,
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:the nutty, earthy flavors, and it's got
really strong, think wet soil flavors.
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:With butterscotch.
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:With, yeah, like butterscotch in my sauce.
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:But the sweet is way down on it.
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:It is not.
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:as sweet, by any stretch of the
imagination, as birch syrup or, of
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:course, maple syrup, which is super sweet.
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:Bruce: And the thing about this
is it doesn't taste like nuts.
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:So you expect, well, it's black
walnut, it's black walnut trees.
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:So we're getting the flavor of the
forest, not a flavor of the nuts.
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:And I
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:Mark: should tell you, just, just
as a point of contention or a point
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:of information, that I think birch
syrup and, uh, and black walnut syrup.
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:And we'll talk about one
other syrup in a minute.
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:These tree syrups are
much more condiments.
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:They're drizzles.
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:You can drizzle them on, let's
say, roasted Brussels sprouts.
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:You can drizzle them on apple
cake, but they are less.
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:Uh, main thing like pancake
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:Bruce: syrup.
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:Don't pour them on your French toast.
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:Mark: You don't want a
plate full of these things.
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:They're very strong.
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:The place that we found this birch
syrup in Canada, they were using it
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:as part of their cocktail program.
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:So they were putting a little bit of birch
syrup in bourbon drinks and that kind of
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:thing as part of their cocktail program.
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:Again, that's more how it's used.
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:You wouldn't want to eat tablespoons.
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:Yeah, I
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:Bruce: think Mark's right.
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:Think about it like condiments.
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:And so what's the last one?
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:So
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:Mark: The last one is the rarest
of them all, and it is beech syrup.
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:And this one is really rare
because of two problems.
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:One, the number of beech trees
that can produce this syrup.
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:But two, because North America has
been hit by a beech tree blight.
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:It's a root of the problem.
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:Blight that has hit beach trees
and our beach trees, even here in
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:New England on our property, our
beach trees are dying like crazy.
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:So this one's hard because it's
hard to find because again,
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:beaches are rare to sugar.
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:The ones that can be sugared are
rare and two, they're dying out.
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:Bruce: Yeah.
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:The most likely place you'll find
beach syrup if you're looking to buy
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:it as a place like Etsy where you have
people who are pulling this stuff off
321
:their own property and boiling it down.
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:Mark: If I were to go to
here, if I were to take
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:Bruce: Marcus tasting the beach up, it's
lighter in color than the other two.
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:It's definitely lighter.
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:And it's not
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:Mark: as sour.
327
:Um, the the birch syrup and
especially the black walnut
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:syrup all verge away from sweet.
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:Beach syrup is much more
like dried fruit like prunes.
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:Think dried apricots.
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:Think raisins like a
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:Bruce: good Armagnac.
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:Mark: Yeah, think about it in that way.
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:It's not nearly as viscous as
the maybe even as maple syrup.
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:Bruce: No, and it's not
as dark as birch either,
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:Mark: right?
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:I have this feeling and I don't know the
research to this, but I have this feeling.
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:Feeling that the sap is very watery and
this is about as good as they can get it
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:towards syrup without it burning There's
this tipping point Uh in which you can tip
340
:over and get burned flavors into the syrup
and all producers watch very carefully Uh
341
:against this I should tell you a little
story while we're here sitting on syrup
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:about years ago I mean 20 years ago bruce
and I decided to take a long weekend away.
343
:We were living in new york city
And we drove way up into Quebec,
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:rural Quebec, not Montreal and
not Quebec City, but rural Quebec.
345
:So we're in rural Quebec at a really
nice hotel, but it's the dead of winter
346
:and there's not anything to do, but
they are starting to sugar around us.
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:So there's guys and they're
making syrup, right?
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:And we pull up and we asked if we can
see the evaporator and watch them work.
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:And of course, they're happy to see us
because gosh, who comes by these lonely
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:icy roads in the middle of the winter, eh?
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:And so they invite us
inside, and they're boiling
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:Mark (2): down this giant vat of sap
to create syrup, and they're bottling
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:it, which is all fine and good.
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:Except, here's the
funny part of the story.
355
:I guess funny.
356
:Um, they're cooking their lunch in
the boiling sap, which means, There
357
:are hot dogs floating around in that
boiling sap, which they're eating.
358
:And I thought to myself, I wonder if
people who are kosher know that Kosher?
359
:What if you're
360
:Bruce: vegetarian?
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:Mark (2): This syrup had hot
dogs floating around in it.
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:Bruce: Yeah, and I didn't check to see
if their bottles were labeled kosher.
363
:I don't remember.
364
:But Yeah, so you kind of want to be aware
of these things, that if you open a bottle
365
:of maple syrup and it has sort of a smoky,
piggy flavor, you know, those guys may
366
:have been cooking their lunch in it, too.
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:Mark: Yeah, I know.
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:It was just, we were both so shocked.
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:I have
370
:Bruce: to say, they gave
us one that was delicious.
371
:Yeah, well, it was.
372
:The hot
373
:Mark: dog cooked in maple syrup was
delicious, but it was just really crazy.
374
:I can remember standing there
staring at it, thinking, I wonder
375
:if Consumers know there's a hot dog
floating around in this maple stuff.
376
:And yes, all the pathogens are
going to be killed off in this
377
:long, long, long, long boil.
378
:And listen, all the flavors
are going to be killed off too.
379
:But it's still a question of who knows
what about what's being produced.
380
:You know, what can I tell you?
381
:I, nobody really knows how
these things get produced.
382
:Do they, without a billion
inspectors, which there are not,
383
:well, that's our whole take on syrups.
384
:If you're interested in more of
this, again, I can tell you to,
385
:if you sign up for our newsletter.
386
:We'll be sending you some
links to certain producers.
387
:You can check them out yourself.
388
:And also you can do a Google search and
look around on your own, but I've got some
389
:favorites and I'll send them to you before
we get to the last part of our podcast.
390
:Let me say that it's always
great to have you along.
391
:And we thank you very much for
being a part of this journey
392
:into food and cooking with us.
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:Okay.
394
:Up as always at the end,
what's making us happy.
395
:in Food This Week.
396
:Bruce: Whitefish salad has made me
happy many times over the years, and
397
:I've, I've been buying whitefish like
crazy on smoked, smoked freshwater
398
:fish, and you buy it in chunks.
399
:I won't buy prepared whitefish salad.
400
:That is disgusting.
401
:I'm going to make it myself.
402
:So I buy a chunk of whitefish, peel that
golden skin off, you pull the meat off,
403
:you throw it in a food processor, you
add Mayonnaise, more mayonnaise, more
404
:mayonnaise, and a little sweet pickle.
405
:Thereby
406
:Mark: disavowing the myth that Jews
don't eat mayonnaise, but do go on.
407
:Bruce: Jews just don't put
mayonnaise on a pastrami sandwich.
408
:Well, that's disgusting.
409
:Mark: Well.
410
:Bruce: Do go on.
411
:And then you were it up the
fish with the mayonnaise and
412
:a little sweet pickle relish.
413
:I've been eating it for days.
414
:It is my favorite tree, but you have
to eat it with pickled jalapeno slices.
415
:And it's the only
416
:Mark: good way.
417
:That's our house is we eat white fish
salad with pickled jalapeno slices.
418
:It's a thing.
419
:Okay.
420
:What's making me happy in food
this week is buff bourguignon.
421
:And it's funny I say this because
Bruce has, uh, for a long time when
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:he first met me, he was kind of this
master of Dolby, actually dubbed the
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:buff, not buff bourguignon, but okay.
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:Um, if you're going to get
technical, but he was this master
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:of this Provencal beef stew.
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:And over the years he's Um, found ways
to cheat it and cheat it and cheat it.
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:I got lazy.
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:I don't begrudge him this.
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:I get lazy.
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:But essentially in the last couple of
years, he's been making beef stew and
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:calling it Dub Duboof, which is not true.
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:So this last weekend we had, we can
guess in and I was like, can you
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:actually go back to the original
real way you make Dub Duboof?
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:And he did.
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:And it was worth All
of the possible effort.
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:It involved two bottles of wine
in the stew that were one for
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:marinating, right, and then one in
the stew, or two for marinating.
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:Which was it?
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:It
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:Bruce: was two for marinating
and they both went in.
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:Okay,
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:Mark: and then
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:Bruce: you know, you marinate
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:Mark: this with
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:Bruce: what?
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:Oh, fresh carrots and celery and
garlic and onions and thyme and sage
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:and allspice berries and peppercorns.
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:So here's the thing, you take it out
and then you brown bacon and you brown
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:the meat and you put all the vegetables
in and then halfway through cooking.
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:You take the meat out, strain those
vegetables, because now they're spent.
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:Put the meat back in with the sauce, with
sautéed mushrooms, olives, and prunes.
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:Mark: And pancetta.
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:Bruce: And pancetta, and two more hours.
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:Mark: Yeah, and it was
so rich and satisfying.
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:It was perfect, Dom Dubuff.
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:I told him he's not, uh, I'm not allowed
to call anything else dub dub dub.
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:He's free to make beef stew any time
he wants, but it's not dub dub dub.
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:This is the real thing.
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:And it made me very
happy through this week.
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:So that's the podcast.
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:Thanks for being a part,
as I said, with us.
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:Thanks for being along in this
journey, and I hope that you
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:expand your syrup repertoire.
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:Bruce: Every week we tell you what's
making us happy in Facebook page.
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:Facebook group, Cooking
with Bruce and Mark.
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:So go there and tell us what is
making you happy in food this week.
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:Cause we want to know here at
Cooking with Bruce and Mark.