Episode 57

full
Published on:

21st Oct 2024

WELCOME TO OUR KITCHEN: We're talking about all sorts of syrups!

Tree syrups. Did you know there are many more than just maple syrup? We love them because they're versatile and tasty. So we're doing a taste-test of tree syrups.

We're Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough, authors of three dozen cookbooks and countless published recipes. We've written about syrups for the old GOURMET magazine and we want to share the passion we developed in that article with you.

So let's talk tree syrups!

Here are the segments for this episode of COOKING WITH BRUCE & MARK;

[00:39] Our-minute cooking tip: add a little maple syrup to bottled salad dressings, barbecue sauces, and marinades for a flavor boost. Or stir maple syrup into softened butter.

[02:33] All about tree syrups: maple, black walnut, birch, and beech. A true treat. We'll share our tasting notes with you. If you sign up for our newsletter at cookingwithbruceandmark.com, you can find our about our favorite producers.

[18:42] What’s making us happy in food this week: whitefish salad and beef daube.

Transcript
Bruce:

Hey, I'm Bruce Weinstein, and this is the podcast

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Cooking with Bruce and Mark.

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Mark: And I'm Mark Skarborough.

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And together with Bruce, we have

written 36 cookbooks, plus Bruce

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has written two knitting books, plus

I have written a memoir, so much.

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And we, in fact, have more in the works.

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We are currently in the editorial

process of a new cookbook.

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We'll tell you about

that on down the line.

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But in this episode of our podcast

about food and cooking, we're talking

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about syrup, all things syrup,

maple syrups, and many, many more.

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We've got a one minute cooking tip

that involves, yes, you guessed it,

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syrup, and we'll tell you what's

making us happy in food this week.

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So let's get started.

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Bruce: Our one minute cooking tip.

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Use maple syrup to enhance simple things

like salad dressings and sour cream.

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Just takes a few drops, little

hint of sweetness, depth of flavor.

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Here's an idea.

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Stir a teaspoon or two into

a softened stick of butter.

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Use maple syrup and coffee

instead of white sugar.

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Swap it for a simple

syrup in cocktail recipes.

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Those are

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Mark: lots of ways to use maple syrup.

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So what kind of bottled salad dressing

would you suggest I use with maple syrup?

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Bruce: Uh, you're going to mix it into

a bottled dressing like any vinaigrette

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except balsamic because a balsamic

vinaigrette is already going to be sweet.

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Like, so avoid the balsamic,

avoid the raspberry.

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Go for, you know, an Italian

dressing, a regular vinaigrette.

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You can even put a little bit into a

creamy ranch would make it fabulous.

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Mark: Yeah.

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And again, if you want a really nice

spread for toast, as Bruce says, mix

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just a little, and we're talking a

tiny little bit, maybe two teaspoons at

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most into a softened stick of butter.

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That's a tablespoons of butter

or about 230 grams of butter.

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Uh, mix it in there and then

just leave it out on the counter.

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It's this sweetened

softened butter for toast.

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Delicious.

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Okay.

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Before we get to the next segment

all about syrups, let us say

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that we do have a newsletter.

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You can find this newsletter by

going to our website, bruceandmark.

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com or cookingwithbruceandmark.

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com.

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You can sign up there and then you can get

about once a month, twice a month maybe.

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You can get various newsletters about

our topics, including one for this.

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podcast episode about syrups.

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We'll send you a newsletter that

includes our favorite syrup makers

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who have not supported this podcast

and have given us nothing in return.

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Bastards.

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No, I'll just send you the links

to find our favorite syrup makers.

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So let's get to talking about tree syrups.

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Bruce: It's fall in New England.

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We have apples.

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We got pumpkins.

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We got gourds.

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We got cider donuts.

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We got mums.

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We got a lot of

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Mark: gourds.

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Bruce: And for some reason,

there's a lot of maple syrup to be

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had in the fall, isn't it weird?

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Mark: Yeah, it is weird.

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If you don't know this, people

think of maple syrup when the trees

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in New England turn red and gold.

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But in fact, sugaring, as it's called,

happens in the late winter, it's not

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even spring, in the very late autumn.

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winter.

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And although it looks like it

should happen now with apples and

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beautiful trees, in fact, it's

the exact wrong time of year.

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So here's the deal.

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If you don't know about how this works

during the summer, maple trees and only.

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Two sorts of maple

trees make syrup, right?

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The

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Bruce: sugar maple and the red maple.

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Mark: Okay, so we get these two

species, which are abundant here in New

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England, sugar maples and red maples.

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And during the summer, through

photosynthesis, they create

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sugar and that sugar travels

down the tree into the roots.

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And it's stored as carbohydrates in

the roots when the spring thaw comes.

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And we're talking really the late

winter thaw, not even the spring

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Bruce: off in the end of January

is when you start putting your

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holes and your taps into the trees.

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I

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Mark: mean, I'll tell you

that Bruce and I have lived in

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rural New England for 18 years.

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And when we first moved up

here, it was usually around the.

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the end of February when they

started tapping the trees.

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Now it's generally the end of

January, the first day of February

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when they're tapping the trees.

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So they tap the trees, they use

a pressure system to actually

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draw sap up the tree, right?

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And then out the tap.

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Sometimes you'll see the old fashioned

way with buckets hanging off trees, but

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you can also drive around the woods around

us and it looks like a brewery because

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there's a million trees connected by a

million bits of little plastic piping.

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Bruce: So people making maple syrup

now have Barrels and barrels and

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gallons and gallons of maple sap, and

there's a high sugar content, but to

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make it easier to boil it down, most

people use a reverse osmosis system

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that takes pressure in it to get the

water content out, reduces the sugar

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content, makes it easier to boil down.

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Mark: As a general rule, so just

as a general rule, the sap that is

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pulled out of the trees is stronger,

or more maple syrupy, let's just say.

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Earlier in the year, and it

gets watery as it goes on.

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So as the season extends, they

have to boil it down more and more.

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That's a general rule.

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It doesn't always work out that way.

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And where we live in our part of England,

we see them start and stop sugaring.

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So they'll start.

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Getting the sap out, and then we'll

get a really bad cold snap and

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they'll quit because the sap stops

running, and then we'll get a lot

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of rain, and they'll quit sometimes

because it's too watery, and they want

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that rain to kind of flush through.

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There's all kinds of reasons why they

start And they stop it in general.

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The early SAP is considered primo.

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And if you go to certain producers,

they're very proud of offering you the

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first week's run and that kind of stuff.

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And it's because many people

believe that there is a milder,

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mellower flavor early in the run.

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Bruce: Why would you want something

mild when you can have a good,

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lovely, strong maple flavor?

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It

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Mark: depends on what you want.

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Not everybody wants the same thing.

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Now, if you don't know, maple syrup

comes in all kinds of grades, and

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there's Canadian differences, there's U.

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S.

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differences, and even there are some

producer differences because this is

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weakly enforced, not strongly enforced.

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But you should just look

at the color of the syrup.

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In general, the darker it is, the more

molasses like and the more It's going to

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get I tend to like very dark maple syrup.

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You can get even ones that are so dark,

they're supposedly just for cooking.

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It used

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Bruce: to be called grade B.

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I'm not sure what they call those now.

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And

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Mark: there's different Canadian

labelings and US labels.

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I don't like it that far.

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But I, Always with the dark stuff

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Bruce: and in general, no matter

what color it is, the sugar content

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is going to be at about 66 percent

which is 66 bricks degrees B.

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R.

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I.

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X.

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And it will take on average 40

liters of sap to make one leader.

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Of maple syrup.

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Yeah.

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So

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Mark: thi this is how you

know it's so expensive.

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'cause you do know maple syrup is

expensive and a lot of people, I wanna

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go back to this light and dark thing

'cause I don't wanna put anybody down.

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A lot of people like the light

syrup because they like it for

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pancakes and waffles and they prefer

that light tasting syrup on it.

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I just like big flavoring.

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Yeah, we do.

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So that's my thing.

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But you may not know this but,

well, maple trees are storied

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in terms of of syrup production.

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There are a lot.

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of other trees that can be

sugared beyond maple trees.

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And in fact, there are

people who sugar these trees.

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And before Bruce launches into this,

I want to say that years ago, when

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there was still Gourmet Magazine

and it still ran around, Bruce and

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I wrote about an Alaskan birch.

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Syrup producer.

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Bruce: Yeah, these people, uh, lived

in Alaska and they had a huge, uh,

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stand of birch trees that they tapped.

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They tapped maple as well, and

they would, you know, some people

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don't like the taste of birch.

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Mark and I are actually gonna taste

it here live during this podcast.

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Um, so they, you know, Because

people sometimes think it's bitter,

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they blend it with maple, but

you could buy pure birch syrup.

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And the one we're actually going to

taste today, we got on a recent trip

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to Quebec, there was a producer there

that Eskoumiak, and they have all sorts

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of grades and beautiful maple syrups

and a very, limited supply of birch

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Mark: and a very expensive

supply of birch syrup.

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This bottle that set us back a little

bit to buy a bottle of birch syrup.

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It's really labor intensive because

birch trees, you can tell they've

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got these thin trunks, they don't

produce as much as maple trees and

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what they produce is often much more

watery than what maple trees produce

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Bruce: to get the flavor.

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of that caramelized birch sugar, you've

got to boil down a hundred to one, not

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40 to one, like you do with maple syrup.

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It's a hundred liters of

birch sap to one liter.

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And that law,

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Mark: not only do the birch trees produce

a different flavor than maple syrup,

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that long boiling also brings on more.

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caramel notes because more of the

sugars are transmogrifying as it

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boils, so it's going to take on

a more molasses quality to it.

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Maple syrup is, we think, is a

delicacy and we have long loved

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maple syrup in our house and we love

the darker flavors, as I've said,

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and we love the clean taste of it.

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So we've got some here from where?

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Bruce: That's from Hidden Springs in

Vermont, maple syrup, and I just tasted

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it and handed Mark the shot glass.

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Wow.

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And.

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The flavor is not just sweet.

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It's fruity.

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It actually has a stone

fruit quality that I like.

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These people in Hidden Springs get a

leaf rot that happens on their property.

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Yeah, it's a leaf mold rot.

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That's a mold that gets down

into the roots and it kills them.

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It gives it a spectacular flavor,

and it's mellow, and it's fruity,

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as opposed to the Burt syrup.

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Now, we do have that bottle of

Escomiak Burt syrup from Quebec,

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and I'm looking at the color, and

it actually looks like molasses.

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And

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Mark: tar.

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It looks like

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Bruce: Worcestershire sauce.

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And

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Mark: it, when Bruce is swirling the

glass around, and it's staining the

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inside of the glass a dark color.

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And I'm going to taste it.

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As he swirls it around.

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And this stuff is really, really good.

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Bruce: really a big flavor.

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Wow.

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I am getting a mouthful

of intense vanilla.

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Oh wow.

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Oh, and sour.

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There's a sour quality

that is so fabulous hour.

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Mark: And it, it is a huge flavor

that when I'm smelling and tasting

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right now, it's just the forest.

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It has this, Uh, the smell of damp forest

smell to it, but it's really sweet.

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It's super sweet, but

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Bruce: yet sour at the same time.

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Crazy, sour, almost like a sucking candy

that you had as kids that were like the

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crown royal sour cherries, sour lemons.

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They were sweet, but they made you pucker.

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I can imagine.

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A little bit of this in a margarita

to give it that sour edge, but

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also a little sweetness would

also give it a beautiful color.

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Mark: It makes, let me just say, and

again, we're not sponsored by anybody.

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So this doesn't go to anybody's

credit, but a purchaser makes a

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really interesting holiday gift.

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And if you want to try it out and give

it to someone as a holiday gift, I would

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suggest that you don't go for the pure

stuff, but you go for the stuff that's

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cut with maple syrup, because it's

going to be more mainstream tasting.

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If you go for what we just tasted, which

is the, uh, the real hundred percent Burt

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syrup, again, super damp wood smell taste

like, uh, it's got a kind of running

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river brook through mossy ledge taste.

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It's got a sour edge.

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Imagine

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Bruce: eating some sour edge.

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sour berries right off a bush in the

woods, and then you take a bite of some

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bread and it's sweet, but it's sour,

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Mark: fabulous.

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It's, it's birch syrup is,

is a, is a labor of love.

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It's super intensive to create it.

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Uh, when we spoke to these Alaskan

producers years ago for gourmet, it

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was just amazing how much work they had

to put in to create their birch syrup.

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But there are more than just birch syrup.

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There

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Bruce: is something really

special, black walnut tree syrup.

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Now you have to be careful when

you're shopping for this because

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there's a lot of bottles out

there labeled black walnut syrup.

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And all those tend to be our corn syrup

and sugar syrups with black walnuts added

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or black walnut extract added to them.

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And they're delicious, but you

have the flavor of the walnut.

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not the flavor of the tree.

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Now, there are some people

actually boiling down black

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walnut tree sap into syrup.

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Takes about 50 liters of that sap.

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Hard to find.

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If you're going to look for

it, look for it in the spring.

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Look for it in February or March.

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We were lucky enough to get some

last year that we still have.

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It's like birch syrup in its color.

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It's very dark.

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It's very viscous.

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Um, the flavors are a little different,

and I'm going to give it a try.

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Mark: It's, it's, uh, I should just tell

you, but the black walnut syrup, the,

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the nutty, earthy flavors, and it's got

really strong, think wet soil flavors.

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With butterscotch.

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With, yeah, like butterscotch in my sauce.

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But the sweet is way down on it.

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It is not.

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as sweet, by any stretch of the

imagination, as birch syrup or, of

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course, maple syrup, which is super sweet.

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Bruce: And the thing about this

is it doesn't taste like nuts.

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So you expect, well, it's black

walnut, it's black walnut trees.

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So we're getting the flavor of the

forest, not a flavor of the nuts.

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And I

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Mark: should tell you, just, just

as a point of contention or a point

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of information, that I think birch

syrup and, uh, and black walnut syrup.

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And we'll talk about one

other syrup in a minute.

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These tree syrups are

much more condiments.

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They're drizzles.

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You can drizzle them on, let's

say, roasted Brussels sprouts.

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You can drizzle them on apple

cake, but they are less.

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Uh, main thing like pancake

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Bruce: syrup.

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Don't pour them on your French toast.

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Mark: You don't want a

plate full of these things.

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They're very strong.

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The place that we found this birch

syrup in Canada, they were using it

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as part of their cocktail program.

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So they were putting a little bit of birch

syrup in bourbon drinks and that kind of

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thing as part of their cocktail program.

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Again, that's more how it's used.

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You wouldn't want to eat tablespoons.

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Yeah, I

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Bruce: think Mark's right.

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Think about it like condiments.

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And so what's the last one?

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So

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Mark: The last one is the rarest

of them all, and it is beech syrup.

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And this one is really rare

because of two problems.

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One, the number of beech trees

that can produce this syrup.

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But two, because North America has

been hit by a beech tree blight.

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It's a root of the problem.

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Blight that has hit beach trees

and our beach trees, even here in

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New England on our property, our

beach trees are dying like crazy.

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So this one's hard because it's

hard to find because again,

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beaches are rare to sugar.

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The ones that can be sugared are

rare and two, they're dying out.

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Bruce: Yeah.

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The most likely place you'll find

beach syrup if you're looking to buy

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it as a place like Etsy where you have

people who are pulling this stuff off

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their own property and boiling it down.

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Mark: If I were to go to

here, if I were to take

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Bruce: Marcus tasting the beach up, it's

lighter in color than the other two.

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It's definitely lighter.

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And it's not

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Mark: as sour.

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Um, the the birch syrup and

especially the black walnut

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syrup all verge away from sweet.

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Beach syrup is much more

like dried fruit like prunes.

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Think dried apricots.

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Think raisins like a

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Bruce: good Armagnac.

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Mark: Yeah, think about it in that way.

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It's not nearly as viscous as

the maybe even as maple syrup.

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Bruce: No, and it's not

as dark as birch either,

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Mark: right?

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I have this feeling and I don't know the

research to this, but I have this feeling.

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Feeling that the sap is very watery and

this is about as good as they can get it

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towards syrup without it burning There's

this tipping point Uh in which you can tip

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over and get burned flavors into the syrup

and all producers watch very carefully Uh

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against this I should tell you a little

story while we're here sitting on syrup

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about years ago I mean 20 years ago bruce

and I decided to take a long weekend away.

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We were living in new york city

And we drove way up into Quebec,

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rural Quebec, not Montreal and

not Quebec City, but rural Quebec.

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So we're in rural Quebec at a really

nice hotel, but it's the dead of winter

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and there's not anything to do, but

they are starting to sugar around us.

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So there's guys and they're

making syrup, right?

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And we pull up and we asked if we can

see the evaporator and watch them work.

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And of course, they're happy to see us

because gosh, who comes by these lonely

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icy roads in the middle of the winter, eh?

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And so they invite us

inside, and they're boiling

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Mark (2): down this giant vat of sap

to create syrup, and they're bottling

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it, which is all fine and good.

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Except, here's the

funny part of the story.

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I guess funny.

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Um, they're cooking their lunch in

the boiling sap, which means, There

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are hot dogs floating around in that

boiling sap, which they're eating.

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And I thought to myself, I wonder if

people who are kosher know that Kosher?

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What if you're

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Bruce: vegetarian?

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Mark (2): This syrup had hot

dogs floating around in it.

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Bruce: Yeah, and I didn't check to see

if their bottles were labeled kosher.

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I don't remember.

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But Yeah, so you kind of want to be aware

of these things, that if you open a bottle

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of maple syrup and it has sort of a smoky,

piggy flavor, you know, those guys may

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have been cooking their lunch in it, too.

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Mark: Yeah, I know.

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It was just, we were both so shocked.

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I have

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Bruce: to say, they gave

us one that was delicious.

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Yeah, well, it was.

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The hot

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Mark: dog cooked in maple syrup was

delicious, but it was just really crazy.

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I can remember standing there

staring at it, thinking, I wonder

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if Consumers know there's a hot dog

floating around in this maple stuff.

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And yes, all the pathogens are

going to be killed off in this

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long, long, long, long boil.

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And listen, all the flavors

are going to be killed off too.

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But it's still a question of who knows

what about what's being produced.

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You know, what can I tell you?

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I, nobody really knows how

these things get produced.

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Do they, without a billion

inspectors, which there are not,

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well, that's our whole take on syrups.

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If you're interested in more of

this, again, I can tell you to,

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if you sign up for our newsletter.

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We'll be sending you some

links to certain producers.

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You can check them out yourself.

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And also you can do a Google search and

look around on your own, but I've got some

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favorites and I'll send them to you before

we get to the last part of our podcast.

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Let me say that it's always

great to have you along.

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And we thank you very much for

being a part of this journey

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into food and cooking with us.

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Okay.

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Up as always at the end,

what's making us happy.

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in Food This Week.

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Bruce: Whitefish salad has made me

happy many times over the years, and

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I've, I've been buying whitefish like

crazy on smoked, smoked freshwater

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fish, and you buy it in chunks.

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I won't buy prepared whitefish salad.

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That is disgusting.

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I'm going to make it myself.

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So I buy a chunk of whitefish, peel that

golden skin off, you pull the meat off,

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you throw it in a food processor, you

add Mayonnaise, more mayonnaise, more

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mayonnaise, and a little sweet pickle.

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Thereby

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Mark: disavowing the myth that Jews

don't eat mayonnaise, but do go on.

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Bruce: Jews just don't put

mayonnaise on a pastrami sandwich.

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Well, that's disgusting.

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Mark: Well.

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Bruce: Do go on.

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And then you were it up the

fish with the mayonnaise and

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a little sweet pickle relish.

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I've been eating it for days.

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It is my favorite tree, but you have

to eat it with pickled jalapeno slices.

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And it's the only

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Mark: good way.

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That's our house is we eat white fish

salad with pickled jalapeno slices.

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It's a thing.

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Okay.

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What's making me happy in food

this week is buff bourguignon.

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And it's funny I say this because

Bruce has, uh, for a long time when

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he first met me, he was kind of this

master of Dolby, actually dubbed the

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buff, not buff bourguignon, but okay.

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Um, if you're going to get

technical, but he was this master

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of this Provencal beef stew.

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And over the years he's Um, found ways

to cheat it and cheat it and cheat it.

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I got lazy.

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I don't begrudge him this.

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I get lazy.

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But essentially in the last couple of

years, he's been making beef stew and

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calling it Dub Duboof, which is not true.

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So this last weekend we had, we can

guess in and I was like, can you

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actually go back to the original

real way you make Dub Duboof?

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And he did.

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And it was worth All

of the possible effort.

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It involved two bottles of wine

in the stew that were one for

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marinating, right, and then one in

the stew, or two for marinating.

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Which was it?

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It

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Bruce: was two for marinating

and they both went in.

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Okay,

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Mark: and then

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Bruce: you know, you marinate

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Mark: this with

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Bruce: what?

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Oh, fresh carrots and celery and

garlic and onions and thyme and sage

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and allspice berries and peppercorns.

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So here's the thing, you take it out

and then you brown bacon and you brown

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the meat and you put all the vegetables

in and then halfway through cooking.

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You take the meat out, strain those

vegetables, because now they're spent.

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Put the meat back in with the sauce, with

sautéed mushrooms, olives, and prunes.

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Mark: And pancetta.

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Bruce: And pancetta, and two more hours.

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Mark: Yeah, and it was

so rich and satisfying.

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It was perfect, Dom Dubuff.

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I told him he's not, uh, I'm not allowed

to call anything else dub dub dub.

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He's free to make beef stew any time

he wants, but it's not dub dub dub.

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This is the real thing.

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And it made me very

happy through this week.

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So that's the podcast.

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Thanks for being a part,

as I said, with us.

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Thanks for being along in this

journey, and I hope that you

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expand your syrup repertoire.

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Bruce: Every week we tell you what's

making us happy in Facebook page.

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Facebook group, Cooking

with Bruce and Mark.

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So go there and tell us what is

making you happy in food this week.

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Cause we want to know here at

Cooking with Bruce and Mark.

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About the Podcast

Cooking with Bruce and Mark
Fantastic recipes, culinary science, a little judgment, hysterical banter, love and laughs--you know, life.
Join us, Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, for weekly episodes all about food, cooking, recipes, and maybe a little marital strife on air. After writing thirty-six cookbooks, we've got countless opinions and ideas on ingredients, recipes, the nature of the cookbook-writing business, and much more. If you've got a passion for food, we also hope to up your game once and a while and to make you laugh most of the time. Come along for the ride! There's plenty of room!

About your host

Profile picture for Mark Scarbrough

Mark Scarbrough

Former lit professor, current cookbook writer, creator of two podcasts, writer of thirty-five (and counting) cookbooks, author of one memoir (coming soon!), married to a chef (my cookbook co-writer, Bruce Weinstein), and with him, the owner of two collies, all in a very rural spot in New England. My life's full and I'm up for more challenges!