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Episode 52

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Published on:

16th Sep 2024

WELCOME TO OUR KITCHEN: We're talking about donuts and the debates they provoke!

Who doesn't love donuts? They're the treat many of us crave. But they do have a storied history. And they do inspire a great debate: glazed (or yeast-raised) vs. cake donuts.

We're Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough. We want to talk about all things donuts! We want to hear your favorites, too. We've also got a one-minute cooking tip about simple syrup. And we'll tell you what's making us happy in food this week.

Here are the segments for this episode of COOKING WITH BRUCE & MARK:

[00:46] Our one-minute cooking tip: Consider simple syrup your go-to sweetener for drinks.

[02:44] The history of donuts and the debates they inspire: glazed vs. cake donuts.

[16:45] What’s making us happy in food this week: fresh corn and plum tomatoes.

Transcript
Speaker:

Hey, I'm Bruce Weinstein, and this is

the podcast cooking with Bruce and Mark,

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and I'm Mark Scarbrough, his husband

And this is our food and cooking podcast

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a podcast that has come out of our 36

cookbooks Our years as contributing

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editors to magazines such as cooking

light and eating well our years years

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as columnists on Weight Watchers, at

Eating Well, at Cooking Light, our

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years doing way so much in our lives.

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Over 20, 000 original copywritten recipes

so far in our career and it's ongoing.

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We appreciate your being here with us

for, as usual, our one minute cooking tip.

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We've got an entire Tire podcast

dedicated to doughnuts, doughnuts.

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Oh, indeed.

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And we'll tell you what's making

us happy and food this week.

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So let's get started.

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Our one minute cooking tip,

simple syrup is the perfect way

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to sweeten Cold and iced drinks.

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It is.

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If you put sugar into an iced

coffee or an iced tea, it's

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mostly gonna fall to the bottom.

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And then you gotta get a super

long spoon to try and stir it up.

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What?

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You don't have iced teaspoons?

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What?

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And, come on.

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Make a simple syrup.

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Equal parts water and sugar.

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Bring it to a boil.

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Cool it, and you're done.

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Yeah, um, We all know, from those of us

in the South, the thing of, you know,

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our great uncle, or aunt, or whoever,

who put so much sugar in the iced tea

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that it was like an inch layer at the

bottom of the glass that never dissolved.

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Because, of course, it was a

super saturated solution now.

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And it's cold.

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Nothing dissolves in Cold and

simple syrups are the right way.

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And again, what is the ratio

to make a simple syrup?

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Equal parts water and sugar.

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And what do you do?

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You bring it to a boil, you

cool it, and you're done.

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Yeah, you bring it to a boil, turn

it off, and then Well, you can't

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cool it if you don't turn it off.

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You have to be clear.

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The writer wants to be clear.

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And then you're done, and you can

store it in the fridge, and it's a much

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better way to sweeten coffee, um, iced

coffee, iced tea, in fact, hot coffee.

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And look, if Coke's not sweet enough

for you, add it to your coffee.

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Oh, my gosh.

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Okay, we're going to go on to

more diabetic topics with donuts.

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But before we get there, let's

say that we would appreciate a

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rating or review for this podcast.

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If you can do that, you can find a way

to leave it stars on whatever platform

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you're listening to this on audible.

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Yeah, on I heart radio, on on Apple

podcasts, any place that you find this,

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what's, what's the big streaming services?

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I can't think.

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Uh, Spotify.

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Thank you.

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Spotify.

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Wow.

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I'm getting old.

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Spotify.

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You can find a way to give it a stars.

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And many of those platforms

allow you to write reviews.

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If you could even just say nice podcast,

that would be a way that you can support

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our otherwise unsupported podcast.

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Let's move on to donuts.

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I thought it was time for us

to have the great donut debate.

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I didn't know there was a debate.

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What's the debate?

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Well, because we are a house divided.

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We are.

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I am a yeast raised donut fan,

and you are a cake donut fan.

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It's true.

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I like cake donuts.

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I'll tell you why in a bit.

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But let's just get the definitions

down first, in case you don't know.

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There are two kinds of donuts.

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There are.

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You probably know this, but, uh, there are

cake donuts, and mostly they're made with.

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baking powder.

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That's how they rise.

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There are some yeast made cake doughnuts

that often also include baking powder.

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It all has to do with the ratio of butter

and sugar and eggs and flour and all that

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stuff that get a cake batter even thicker

than a cake batter like consistency.

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It's a, it's a batter.

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You end up with a batter that either

gets dropped out into the deep fryer

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from a doughnut machine, or it's a It's a

thicker batter, one that can actually even

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be rolled and can be cut like a knife.

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When I've made them, I've always done

the, not even a pastry bag, I put it in a

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plastic bag and snipped the corner off and

then, you know, squirted it into the oil.

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Oh, nice.

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Well, it's kind of almost

like making churros.

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Yeah, kind of like churros.

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Mine were never really good.

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great.

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They didn't look, I'm

not a professional baker.

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I'm a writer.

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And so they never looked great.

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But, you know, what can I say?

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They are kind of fried quick bread.

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Yeah, exactly what I think of a

cake doughnut is fried quick bread.

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Unlike yeast doughnuts, which are lighter,

they get their rise from the yeast.

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They're fluffy, they're light, they're

It's a, it's a flour dough and sugar

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and you get eggs in it and melted butter

because it's basically an enriched dough.

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It's almost the same kind of dough.

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If you're making a hollow bread

or a Bopko or something like that,

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you have to sweet enriched dough.

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When you fry it, it becomes very light.

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It's doughnut.

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That is the foundation.

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for cream filled and jelly doughnuts.

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Yes, that's right.

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And it's the doughnut often people

think of if you're not from the U.

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S.

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when they think about U.

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S.

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doughnuts, they think about what are

indeed yeast doughnuts or what we called

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them when I was a kid, glazed doughnuts.

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And I know this is ridiculous because

you're going to tell me that there

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were jelly doughnuts at Greenville,

but we refer to all of those as

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various kinds of glazed doughnuts.

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But you also referred to Sprite

and Fanta Orange as Coke.

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So, you know, it's all Coke.

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So, yeah, I get it.

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Okay, so, donuts, listen, there's

a long tradition, just to say

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a bit about the history here.

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There's a long tradition of frying dough.

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If you've been out in the

American Southwest, you

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know about Navajo fry bread.

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You know about indigenous

people frying dough.

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Romans fried dough.

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I mean, this is Middle Eastern cultures.

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Ancient Greeks fried dough.

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Yeah, and, uh, Islamic culture.

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Caliphates fried dough back

in the 700s common era.

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There is a long tradition of

frying dough in various ways.

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But according to Michael Krundle,

who is the author of The Donut

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History, Recipes and Lore, donuts

are supposed to be communal food.

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Well, that kind of makes sense, right?

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Cause as he says, they're not hard to

make, but the thing is, you can't wait.

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They're not hard to make.

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Only a cookbook writer

would make that claim.

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Donuts are hard to make.

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They are definitely hard.

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It's just fried dough.

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No, it's not just fried dough.

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But the problem is, you

can't just make one donut.

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I mean, Well, you can, but why?

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How do you just make one donut?

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What is it, like a teaspoon of egg?

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And, so you have to make And so

they're not good the next day.

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You need a big group of people,

a nice community, to make it all

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together, fry them up, and get greasy

and fat together over doughnuts.

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Yeah, I mean, you know that doughnuts

are the tradition, for some people,

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at the end of Hanukkah or during

Hanukkah, because of the oil.

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Of course, they occur at the end

of Ramadan in Islamic culture.

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There's all kinds of traditions

of doughnuts on Mardi Gras, Fat

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Tuesday, in Christian cultures.

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And Otherwise, I mean, to me, when

I grew up, donuts were communal food

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because they were celebratory because,

and I grew up in, just to say, if you

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don't know this from this podcast, I

grew up with a grandmother, my maternal

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grandmother, who was a professional baker.

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And that's what she did for a living.

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And I never saw my

grandmother make a donut.

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So they were communal food because we

had to get somebody had to get up early.

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My grandmother, grandfather got

up early and went and got them.

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Donuts and brought them back.

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And it was this big treat

for breakfast to have donuts.

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And it wasn't like your

grandmother was afraid of frying.

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She made fried chicken all the time.

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Now, she baked in an elementary school.

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I wonder if she ever made donuts

in that elementary school.

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I don't think so.

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I honestly never saw her make a donut.

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And we would, oh, I'll

tell you this story.

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So we would, there was this place in

Oklahoma City called Frankie's Donuts.

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And it was, we're talking the sixties now.

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No, Frankie's Donuts.

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And with an IE, Frankie's Donuts, and,

um, it was this place, I mean, this is

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really back in the day, I'm old, and it

had a, a screen door that you entered and

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it flapped shut, you know, bang, bang,

bang, the screen door, so we were headed,

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oh, now it's gonna get really sad, we

were headed to Arkansas to see the fall

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foliage once, I was a little kid, I know,

it's now getting really tragic, and we

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were headed to Eureka Springs, before

Eureka Springs was anything, well, we

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were We would go to Eureka Springs when

it was like a motel and to see the tree.

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No, no, no.

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I have plenty of pictures of

lots of trees turned and, but it

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wasn't the tourist destination.

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There was no Branson.

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There was no Lake of the Ozarks.

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It wasn't anything like that yet.

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So we were going and we would leave

really early in the morning to make it.

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Oh yeah.

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There's a whole.

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The amount of the story is getting bad.

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It's getting long.

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We had to leave early because

my grandfather wanted to eat at

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a diner in Choctaw, Oklahoma.

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So we had to leave early so we

could get to Choctaw for lunch.

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Anyway, we stopped at this place,

Frankie's, to make donuts that

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we loved and were such a treat.

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And they didn't appear to be open.

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And my grandmother got out and banged

on the door to ask if they were open.

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And they came out and they weren't really

truly open yet, but they had made donuts.

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And so, she brought this box of really

hot, fresh doughnuts to the car.

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And let's just say we did not stop

in Choctaw for lunch, which that

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instead we just ate doughnuts all day.

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Probably were sick as dogs.

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Hey, that time you and I

went up to Newfoundland.

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We were on what this

14 hour ferry ride up.

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to Newfoundland, and I stopped at

Tim Hortons and got a box of glazed

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doughnuts, a dozen, and I think

you had one, maybe two, and the

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box was empty when we got there.

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Yeah, let's say that this was supposed

to be a nine hour ferry and from

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Porterbosch to Nova Scotia, and we

got in a bad storm and it ended up

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being like a 12 hour ferry ride, and

you don't want to be on a surging

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ferry, only eating sugary doughnuts.

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I remember getting my seat and

going to the gift shop and standing

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in the gift shop going, Oh God,

don't barf on the trinkets.

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Don't barf on the, on the

decorative spoon collection.

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You only had two of them.

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Oh, it was disgusting.

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But for donuts to get all the way through

Canada, they had to come to the new world

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and they supposedly came to New York

through the Dutch who were the first

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founders down in New York and kicked

the Indians out and took over Manhattan.

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And they had these.

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Ali Cox, and I don't know if I'm

saying that right, but it translates

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to oily cakes, and that was supposedly

the original donut in New York.

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Although we can really claim that

what we sell as modern donuts

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started with Russian immigrants.

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Oh, everything did.

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In New York City, in about 1920,

in which a Russian immigrant, Adolf

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Levitt, started selling fried donuts.

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And I think this is one of the earliest.

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This place is what we can say, wow,

this really was early doughnuts.

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And he also, Adolf Leavitt, invented

what we know as a doughnut machine.

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Yeah, these machines, they're still very

kind of futuristic and cool looking.

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And the machines by the 1934

World's Fair in Chicago were being

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used to sell doughnuts there and

they were billed as the first.

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Food hit of the century of progress.

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No, the century of progress is a donut.

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Homer Simpson would be so happy.

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So that tells you everything you

need to know about the 20th century.

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Um, so Donuts.

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Yeah, donuts and atomic bombs.

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And that was the century of progress.

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So, uh, Yeah, it was a huge, big

moment of progress and mechanization

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back in the day when people were

instantly mechanizing what they

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did in the kitchen of the future.

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And of course, donut chains

began to flash across at least

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the North American landscape.

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Now, again, I grew up going

to small little donut shops.

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Even when we moved to Dallas when

I was really little, we always

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frequented an independent donut shop.

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My father, you were lucky to have them.

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My father didn't like chains.

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Oh.

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He didn't like He wanted a

hamburger from a local restaurant,

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not a fast food hamburger.

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He wanted donuts from a local

shop, not some chain, but yes,

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Krispy Kremes were coming in.

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Dunkin Donuts were coming in.

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Tim Hortons, of course, was all

across Canada, but didn't come

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to the US until Fairly recent.

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Yeah.

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When I was growing up, all

we had was Dunkin Donuts.

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I think our little local, our local

Italian bakery made some donuts.

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I think it's so did the kosher bakery, but

they weren't anything to write home about.

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And I loved when my dad, when Morty

would get up on a Sunday morning and go

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to Dunkin Donuts and just get a giant

box of donuts or that always made me.

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Yeah.

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Um, and you know, we, Bruce and

I still love the treat of donuts.

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We, uh, sometimes when we go to the

airport near us in New England, well

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near us an hour away, the closest

airport to us in New England,

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we stop at a place called Mrs.

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Murphy's over the border in

Massachusetts and we get donuts.

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I mean, this place is so old fashioned.

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Let me tell you this, that there's a

counter and it's like, imagine a line

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Running straight across right but then

put to use in that line now imagine chairs

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all around these use and Like a snake.

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Yeah, and the waiter the woman it's

a woman Of course walks into the

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middle of the you from the inside and

fills everybody's coffee cups around

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the you It's like something in 1930.

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It is no ridiculous.

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Maybe she was there at the World's Fair

with the original Maybe so we landed

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in Portland one night and And, um,

we had a nice dinner at a restaurant

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in Portland, Oregon, one night.

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And we had a nice dinner, and then

we had to go to Voodoo Donuts, right?

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And you had to get a Voodoo Donut.

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I wanted the maple glaze

with the bacon on it.

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Yeah, and we did.

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And then, um, well, let's just

say that I had a donut after a

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flight all day and a big meal out.

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You had a donut accident.

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I threw out a pair of jeans

and a pair of underwear.

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Let's just leave it at that.

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That's a good place to leave it.

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No, let's, let's actually, let's not

leave it there and let's talk about

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what makes a good donut because I

think we're very different on this.

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I think it should be not too sweet.

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I want it to still taste like dough,

like the fried bread it's made of.

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It should taste like yeast.

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I should taste the flour.

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I don't want to just taste sugar.

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That was always my problem.

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When Krispy Kreme first came to Manhattan,

we were still living in the city.

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People lined up for miles and

it was just little grease balls.

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You could squeeze them down

into nothing like that.

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I'm not a fan of Krispy Kreme.

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So you can all write me and tell me how

I'm an idiot, but I'm just not a fan.

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And here's why I'm really not a fan of

Krispy Kreme is because in our house, I'm

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the guy that likes cake doughnuts and I

will tell you why I like cake doughnuts

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and it's this time in New England.

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So there are apple cider cake.

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Donuts running around

everywhere right now.

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And the reason I like them is

because for me, a donut is a dunking

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mechanism, a dunking vehicle.

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I don't know.

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You dunk it in coffee.

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And so I like to have a cake donut

because I dunk it in coffee and it's

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really delicious that dunk a yeast donut.

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It dissolves.

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It just dissolves in your mouth.

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It dissolves in your mouth.

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I actually think my, the favorite yeast

donut I have ever had is one that I made

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and created for our book, Vegetarian

Dinner Parties, and it's a, it is a

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delicious fried pillowy soft yeast raised

dough without eggs and it is stuffed

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with a vegan lemon cream made with tofu.

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And before you go, we had them

out on the set and after we

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shot that platter, the crew

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And you've since made those for Pesach, I

think you've made them or maybe Hanukkah,

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not Pesach, because they have flour.

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Yo, that's true, they have flour.

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I think I made them for Hanukkah.

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That's right.

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Some holiday, maybe Rosh Hashanah, you

made those doughnuts once, and again, they

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were pretty well scarfed down even after.

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brisket or whatever else

we were eating that night.

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I could make them to break

fast for Yom Kippur this year.

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Oh, well, I'm for it.

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I'm up for it.

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Bagels and donuts.

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It depends on how many people we

have, because we got three toilets.

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So, you do the math on this one.

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Um, anyway, I, well, there's a lot

of talk about that with donuts.

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Like, why?

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Does that indicate our age?

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Um, maybe that's how old we are.

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Well, anyway, we both love donuts.

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We both think they're a grand treat.

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I I tend to not like commercially

produced doughnuts because

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I think they're too sweet.

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I don't think they taste

like anything except sugar.

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And I don't like the doughnuts that

are pre packaged in the supermarket

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like the Drake's doughnuts.

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It just tastes like coffee

cake and doughnut form.

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They're often hard.

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And I don't like them

covered in powdered sugar.

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There's too much powdered sugar.

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Too much.

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I don't like a little powdered

sugar, but too much is gross.

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Like when it's a cloud around,

like, you know, hold me onto

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the cloud of powdered sugar.

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It's like, I just can't

deal with all that going on.

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So that's our banter and talk about

the history of doughnuts and our own

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personal thoughts about doughnuts.

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We'd love to hear yours.

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If you'd like to talk about doughnuts,

you can go to the Facebook group, Cooking

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with Bruce and Mark, and we will post.

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post a picture of donuts and ask

you for your favorite donuts.

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So please follow us there and we

will talk much more about donuts.

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All right.

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As is traditional, what's making

us happy in food this week.

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For me, what's making me happy

in food this week is corn.

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And, um, it is that time of year in

new England, late, late summer, early

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fall, right end of August into early

September when our corn comes in.

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I know we're really late for most people.

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Most people, corn is like

months and months before us.

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But our corn is in, and we had an

exceptionally rainy summer, which

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can produce bad corn, but it actually

produced corn that is very corny.

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It has a lot of corn flavor to

it, and it's not terribly watery.

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So the corn we're getting

right now is really fresh.

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Fantastic.

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And I, I absolutely love this moment

when the corn comes into our local

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farmers markets and places like that,

because there's nothing like corn

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that just comes out of the field.

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No, and Mark and I both love

corn like we like our doughnuts.

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Not too sweet.

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We like it to taste of the grain.

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That it is.

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And we don't want it to be too sweet.

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What's making me happy is

another produce in the season.

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The end of tomatoes are here, which

means I get to stock up on everybody's

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ends and make homemade marinara.

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Let's say that end is here in New England.

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Yeah.

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A lot of people are going to be

having tomatoes through November, but

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we are at the end of our tomatoes.

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We went out to lunch with some friends

yesterday, and my friend Rich, who's an

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avid vegetable gardener, brought me, among

the box of potatoes and the braids of

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onions and garlic, he brought me 12 eggs.

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:

pounds of the end of his plum tomatoes.

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:

There's a, I should tell you,

I have to tell you a story.

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There's this little, um, snotty,

uh, up in tourist town, not

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very far from us in New England.

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And it's not snotty.

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I mean, we go there a lot.

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It's where the nicest grocery

store is closest to us.

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And, um, there's a nice ice

cream shop that's open there.

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And there is very pretentious,

uh, cheese shop in this town.

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And he's got a little sandwich window and

time was, I think it's down now, but time.

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was he had a sign on the sandwich window

that said don't even think about ordering

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tomato on a sandwich outside of August.

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So, that tells you about

tomatoes in New England.

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That tells you everything

you need to know.

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That is the only time you get them in.

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:

I did.

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We got home from lunch and I turned those

tomatoes into a giant pot of marinara.

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:

You did.

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:

And that will get bottled and

put in the freezer for a week.

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:

Yeah, and notice when he says

bottle and put in the freezer,

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:

he's not talking about canning it.

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:

No.

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He's going to put it in

containers, and then we're going

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:

to drop it in the chest freezer.

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:

There you go, in the freezer.

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:

And, uh, right, and then you can, uh,

we can pull it out whenever we want.

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:

Hey, I got a great, uh, tip for you,

and it should be a one minute quick tip,

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:

but I'm going to throw it here anyway.

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:

Um, if you have a chest freezer, get

yourself some of that contact paper that

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:

you can write on with, uh, with a marker,

with like a whiteboard marker, and.

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Just spread it across the top of

your freezer and stick it on there.

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And then you can always have an inventory

right on the lid of your freezer.

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:

He said that because I just made

him put a whiteboard on top of our

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freezer to give me an inventory.

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I just did it.

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:

So we've got a great inventory

and that's a great tip for you.

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:

Okay, that's the podcast for this week.

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:

Thanks for being a part of

this podcast journey with us.

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:

Thanks for tuning in.

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:

Taking the time out to

listen to this podcast.

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:

We certainly appreciate your support and

we certainly appreciate your being here.

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:

Thank you for that.

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:

And every week we tell you

what's making us happy in food.

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:

So please go to our Facebook group and

tell us what's making you happy in food

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:

this week, and we want to know about it.

444

:

We want to try it and talk about it

here on Cooking with Bruce and Mark.

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About the Podcast

Cooking with Bruce and Mark
Fantastic recipes, culinary science, a little judgment, hysterical banter, love and laughs--you know, life.
Join us, Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, for weekly episodes all about food, cooking, recipes, and maybe a little marital strife on air. After writing thirty-six cookbooks, we've got countless opinions and ideas on ingredients, recipes, the nature of the cookbook-writing business, and much more. If you've got a passion for food, we also hope to up your game once and a while and to make you laugh most of the time. Come along for the ride! There's plenty of room!

About your host

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Mark Scarbrough

Former lit professor, current cookbook writer, creator of two podcasts, writer of thirty-five (and counting) cookbooks, author of one memoir (coming soon!), married to a chef (my cookbook co-writer, Bruce Weinstein), and with him, the owner of two collies, all in a very rural spot in New England. My life's full and I'm up for more challenges!